There are only two ways to live your life. One is as though nothing is a miracle. The other is as though everything is a miracle. –Albert Einstein
This is Part II in the series. If you missed it, visit Part I here.
4. ASCENSION
About now, you might begin to feel like the fairy dust is wearing off, and perhaps you should have popped for a ride up the hill in one of Prague’s (in)famous, stretch, convertible, authentic-reproduction-Nostalgia” target=”_blank”>antique limos.
Because soon, the road ahead begins spiraling into blue sky and thin air. You glance up from the sloping road in front of you and notice the castle on the hill in the distance nestling near a ledge of slow-moving stratocumulus. You feel extremely pleased you wore your Outer Layers” target=”_blank”>sensible shoes.
You climb the hill on Thurovska until you hit the tiny side street of Zamecka, where the cobblestones begin an even steeper scramble. Sometimes, you peruse a finely-crafted door and wonder just what kind of stories a door like that could tell if, say, maybe there were a statue of Kafka sitting on its mantle.
If you glance ahead from here, all you see is “angles” slanting up and maybe decide this might be the perfect place to grab a seat in a sidewalk café and down another double espresso. You begin the steeper climb here, opposite the Staroceska Kavarna, on what is known as the Zamecky Schody to the right of that medieval stone wall. You’ve chosen the long way up, and perhaps will take the shorter route down.
A ways up the stairs from where you are, you see a girl, smiling, with arms spread joyously, open wide. The girl is not glad she’s trudging up: she’s ecstatic to be going down.
You climb and climb up these steps of the Zamecky Schody, which translates to “castle steps”, originally a wagon trail from the late 1300’s and known then as the “steep path”… yet once again displaying the Praguean simplistic naming of things. The statue in shadow at the far right is an angel on the wall, and is named…right… angel on the wall. If you look closely almost dead center, just to the left of the lamp, you get a glimpse of the not-so-ugly-from-here Zizkov Television Tower in the distance. If you enlarge the photo, you can even make out Cerny’s babies crawling on the tower. The ironic thing about those babies is that some people believe they betray their own version of ugly.
There were, and still are, less-steep and shorter roads up this mountain to the Castle, but this is the oldest route, the most direct, and perhaps the most interesting and authentic. You climb higher and higher, getting gorgeous views of Prague rooftops: some, close up; some, all the way to the horizon.
You are glad you weren’t born as a donkey during the Middle Ages and forced to schlep gold bars or broadswords up to the king on your back. Or perhaps, you were a donkey during the Middle Ages, and that’s why you don’t have to schlep stuff up in this lifetime—karma. Who really knows how the cosmos works? Maybe you die and move toward your god. Maybe you die and turn to dust and that’s the end. Maybe you die and reincarnate into a donkey or cockroach. But is this something—here in the 21st century—we need to continue brawling about?
If you see a bride and groom in formal attire and cross-trainers, it is not a wedding with comfortable shoes. Apparently in Prague, couples who are getting married will take their wedding photos before, or after, the wedding—at various picturesque locales around town, such as Charles Bridge, Astronomical Clock, Prague Castle.
You will see more women in wedding gowns in one day in Prague —either actually getting married or merely taking photographs—than anywhere else in the world. Or in any six-month period of time. Or perhaps, your entire life. Note: if you scroll back a few photos, you’ll notice another bride in a wedding dress, half hidden behind the descending, joyful girl with open arms on the lower stairs.
While you climb, you overhear numerous conversations of others ascending the hill. Their conversation was in Czech, but you believe this is what you just overheard: “Jesus, Mary and Joseph—it’s a long way up this god-forsaken hill, Olga!” Or something to that effect.
Right about here you begin to see a beacon at the end of the tunnel—only a few more steps up.
5. PRAGUE CASTLE
When you reach the summit, it feels like the gods have favored you with grace on this particular day: Starbucks has recently opened a branch here on the hilltop directly across the road from the castle.
You do not feel sorry for Starbucks, obviously, with such a view of the city and Petrin Hill from here, but you might wonder just how much it costs to purchase, or rent, real estate in a location-location-location like this.
You’re especially glad you made it to the top when you discover even more celestial favor: on the corner of the square, Baroque and Classical entertainment begins to blossom at the cobblestone curb—a little Mozart on the menu, a dash of Haydn, maybe.
Note to self for next excursion to Prague: take the stretch limo or ride a Segway up that mountain—if touching St John’s statue, or cross, on Charles Bridge works, and there actually is a next time.
The entrances to Prague Castle are guarded by the military, and at Courtyard 1, also by numerous aggressive statues, including the “fighting giants” above the gate.
Interesting aside: apparently it takes a guard wearing camos and wielding a CZ 805 Bren assault rifle to defend the guard in a baby-blue uniform in the castle guardhouse…if I’m reading this scene properly?
You walk through the long archway of Matthias Gateway from Courtyard 1 and glimpse the front of the castle at Courtyard 2, with the spires of St Vitus Cathedral beyond–the ideal fabric of legends, sagas, and fables.
A fine tower of Baroque castle architecture with interesting slanting windows rises before the entrance and tower of St Vitus Cathedral, looming like some atavistic gothic vision—spires, gargoyles and bells tolling for you.
Construction of the cathedral began in 1344, but took almost 600 years to complete. You wonder if it’s also held together with eggs, and just how many chickens were needed. If you still feel like climbing, you can mount the 287 steps to the top of the South Tower (if there are no services taking place…or weddings!).
According to the Guinness Book of Records, Prague Castle is the “Largest Ancient Castle in the world.” It comprises 753,474 square feet of space—the area of something like seven football fields. If an average two-bedroom house contains, say, 1600 sq ft, Prague Castle would hold over 470 of them.
The main purpose of gargoyles, of course, is to drain rainwater away from the masonry and prevent erosion on the stone and mortar below (especially if egg yolks are not used); gargoyles are usually fairly grotesque for some reason–some say to scare giants away, some say to scare illiterate peasants into the church. They all have open mouths that seemingly “spit” the rainwater away from the building. Some gargoyles on St Vitus appear as dragons—which means here in our very own fairy tale, “thar be dragons, mate.”
6. DESCENSION
Bartolomej and Janek are smiling because not only are they now on their way downhill, but they have just stopped off at J.J. Murphy’s tavern near the top of Zamecky Schody and downed a few Pilsner Urquells—in some people’s book, the Czechs’ best beer, though some may argue it’s Staropramen (who on their bottle actually claim to be “#1 Beer in the World”), and you have to admit, it’s a close call.
Don’t worry, these folks who just came down this short distance from the castle will be cooled off and smiling by the time they finish their pints. The Czechs have a saying that goes something like this: “it takes a village to raise a child, it takes a pint to raise a smile.” Okay, if the Czechs don’t actually have that saying, they probably should.
There is evidence that beer was first created in Mesopotamia something like 5000 years ago: more than 4000 years before gunpowder, almost 3000 years before steel swords, 4998 years before condoms—clear evidence of man’s priorities, and proclivities. The Czechs did not invent beer, but they have certainly perfected it and probably enjoy it more than most cultures.
In the Czech Republic, a country with a population almost equal to Los Angeles County (say about 10 million), there are over 90 breweries, who knows how many brands in total from the different breweries. And according to the Kirin Beer Consumption Report, Czechs drink more of the stuff per capita than any other country in the world, way more. The average in the UK is 67 liters. In America, 76 liters. For Czechs, it’s 147 liters a year, which is something like 12 ounces (355 ml) of beer every day for everyone—each man, woman and child—in the Czech Republic.
It’s nearly impossible to find a pub lacking character in Prague. Na Zdravi—to your health—is the traditional Czech toast. And it turns out, they knew what they were talking about when they first coined that phrase: researchers—and perhaps not even funded by breweries?—are now saying that drinking a glass of beer a day lowers your risk of heart disease; they also say beer protects brain cells, aids digestion, and fights inflammation; and it may even prevent some cancers. Na Zdravi, indeed. But why do researchers never invite us to participate in this kind of healthy research?
Prague’s only canal, the Certovka, is actually fed by, and runs parallel to, the Vltava. This area is called the Venice of Prague where lovers hook locks to the bridge, similar to the Pont des Arts in Paris, a public display of affection without the rigmarole and expense of actually getting “hitched.”
7. TO PETRIN HILL
As evening begins feathering into your day, you decide you still have time and the desire to also visit Petrin Hill, home of Prague’s Hunger Wall and “Little Eiffel Tower” surrounded by woodland and stippled with numerous well-groomed gardens. You work your way over to Karmelitska Street and walk a few blocks south until you see the sign for Petrin Hill.
There is a walkway and stairs leading to the top of Petrin Hill, under a thick canopy of Lindens and conifers. If you’re fit and adventurous, you might decide to hike up this even-steeper mountain, too.
There is also another option: a funicular, dating from 1891, that works on a water-balance drive system, which is extremely energy efficient. Rather than using an engine, the lower car is pulled up the hill by filling the upper car’s reservoir with water until it is heavier than the lower car. The brakes are then released and because the upper car is heavier, it moves downhill, pulling the lower car up, without expending any fuel.
At less than $1.50 for a ticket, this is one of the best deals in Prague—you can ride it 14 times for the price of one shot of the finest absinthe in town. However, if you’re lucky, your coins won’t work in the ticket machine, and the nice lady driver of the funicular may let you ride for free. Otherwise, take the long and winding trail up, and sweat a little more (note: carry a flask of Urquell, or visit in winter).
But here’s another option for the frugal traveler: Prague’s public transport network is koruna friendly—one ticket is valid for 90 minutes on all public transport: bus, tram, metro. And also, the Petrin funicular.
There are several gardens in the vast park on Petrin Hill, what some might call a “haven of calm” away from the hustle. First, you’ll happen upon the Rose Garden, full of various-colored and different species of roses, the Church of St Lawrence huddles to one side. Petrin hill is a major facet in Kafka’s short story “Description of a Struggle.” And there is mention of the hill in Milan Kundera’s The Unbearable Lightness of Being.
The Church of St Lawrence, an interesting building with elegant Baroque towers and spires, sits along a section of Prague’s Hunger Wall, visible to the right of its steeples.
During its history since 1360, the Wall has been used for defensive purposes, but legend states that Charles IV began construction mainly so the poor would have jobs and money to purchase food during a time of great famine. Legend also says that Charles actually worked on the wall a few hours daily to give moral support to his poor.
If we believe Charles Bridge is mortared with egg yolks, we just might believe the king pulled off his robes, gold chains, and rings; hauled rocks; and slathered cement in the wall here alongside his humble subjects. Perhaps his queen ladled lemonade? Nobody really knows how the cosmos works or what history truly is—anything could be accurate. Another instance, perhaps, supporting the notion that what we choose to believe…is what is real for us.
A vast park, a thicket of trees, and flower gardens surround the Petrin Observation Tower—supposedly Prague’s answer to the Eiffel Tower, though it doesn’t actually look like it and is a fraction—1/5th—of the height. Built in 1891 for Prague’s Jubilee Exhibition, it measures 208 feet in height (63.5m), a little taller than the Leaning Tower of Pisa, and the summit of which—because it sits atop Petrin Hill—is approximately the same elevation as the top of the Eiffel Tower: 1043 feet (300m).
If you climb the 299 steps to reach the observation area at the top of Petrin Tower, you find marvelous 360-degree views over Prague, and when weather permits, you might be able to observe most of Bohemia. Sundown may not be the best time to visit if you’re trying to avoid crowds—twenty-five people in the vast gardens is a haven of calm, twenty-five squished into the top of the tower is…well…not.
From the top of Petrin Tower, you can discern just how massive the Prague Castle actually is—the castle runs from one side of the photo to the other. All those other houses the castle dwarfs are not tiny cottages.
Down the hill a ways, you’ll discover Nebozizek, a fine-dining restaurant with an outstanding view, of course. And as one might imagine, they cater weddings and receptions. Do not expect Mickey D prices at this elevation.
Maybe you eat a light dinner here, maybe you simply down another pint of local brew and continue wandering the luxuriant hill.
8. TURNING INTO PUMPKINS
It’s easy to lose track of time in a fairy tale. At some point, you notice it’s getting late, lights are coming on in homes, street lamps illuminate, and you realize it may be about time to start heading back toward Old Town.
You find yourself wandering along the river near the Kampa Museum. You notice a row of 34 amber penguins (I warned you) on a pier above the water. These penguins are more appealing at a distance and at night when illuminated. Made of recycled plastic, they are part of the “Re-Evolution” exhibition by the “Cracking Art Group” of Italy. During daylight, like this, you might judge the penguins rather out of place and unsightly. But then, perhaps no more unattractive or out of place in Prague than babies crawling on a tower or two men peeing in a pool in which they both stand. Perhaps, Einstein was right, everything is relative?
Perhaps you pause in Lesser Town for a quick snack or a brew on the sidewalk at Ristorante Casanova.
By the time you begin sauntering back across Charles Bridge, it’s getting dark.
The Castle on the hill and the restaurant near the Frans Kafka Museum on the water glow in faint luminosity.
Surprisingly, you discover the crowd on the Charles Bridge is even denser now than during the day, and also, more animated—maybe we’re dipping into the witching hour here?
As night begins to shadow the city, lights glisten off the Vltava below the high bank of Old Town.
This photo? Heaven only knows—haven’t you ever taken a hand-held, low-light photograph without a good excuse and put it in a post for no good reason—or is that just me?
You’ve been wandering all day. At this latitude in summer, the sun finally goes dark behind Prague Castle at 10:30. There is no moon, so you stroll home under a raven-black sky, along atavistic stone streets, cruising along the very cobblestones that Mozart and Kundera walked over, the same stones Antonin Dvorak and Hans Christian Anderson walked over. You’ve seen the wonders they saw, you’ve glimpsed their muses. You’ve felt the spirit, the miracles, the splendor of one majestic and magical city. Now, it’s almost time to return to that pumpkin of a life you live.
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FYI: Badfish receives no subsidies for mentioning cafes or brews in the post, but don’t you think he should get a couple free espressos or pints—one a day—or, hey, a massage at that Laboratory Spa, just for hauling his fine arse into those places?
___________________________
PETRIN TOWER INFO: Web: http://www.muzeumprahy.cz/prazske-veze, e-mail: muzeum@muzeumprahy.cz
tel.: +420 257 320 112, +420 725 831 633
Advance tickets to funicular: +420 602 528 672
More Lucile’s: Photo Rehab
PREVIOUS RECENT POSTS ON PRAGUE:
TEREZIN: PRISONERS IN PARADISE
Photo Credits:
Einstein photo credit: Come to Prague
Gargoyle Photo credit: http://weburbanist.com
CASTLE ETCHING: By Dr.J. Kosina; Jiljí Sadeler (1607), Public Domain,
Badfish & Chips Cafe 
Love the sunset picture – its almost a masterpiece – and the indigo tones of the charles bridge at sunset.
Also love the blue topped churches. What is it with that anyhow?
As for Brides – mate, you aint seen nothing yet. Have you seen busloads of brides step off a bus, holding up their white gowns to display their tastefully torn blue jeans, and scurry on down to the beach/shady tree/nearby scenic spot for a photo op? No? Ever seen a zillion brides taking a zillion photos every day on said scenic spots in spring? No? Well pop over to China, mate. They do the same thing here. Photos, ceremonies, legal stuff, and dinner, all separated at different times, different dates. I’ve known people who’ve saved up for years to afford their wedding photos.
But phew, who cares, cause it looks like we’ve escaped Prague without a Badfish Channeling Kafka Post. That might just be a good thing
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What a magnificent post. The colours in some of the later photos are colours you only ever see in naive art – and your photos! I’ve noted the same bridal habits in Poland, but you win on sheer numbers. However my favourite wedding encounter was in the desert west of Broken Hill, Australia – celebrating the twentieth anniversary, the bride in boots and the beer in a wheelbarrow.
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Really…wedding photos at different times in Poland, that just seems so odd to me…but then, perhaps rather efficient. But a wedding in a place called Broken Hill would surely need boots and wheelbarrows of beer!
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All these brides… Do you know how pregnant women seem to see more and more pregnant women around all of a sudden? Beware! 😀 You did a great work, with all this climbing and beer-tasting and photo-taking. And your foot on the golden pavement is the pinnacle.
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Does that mean if I see more people eating apples, I’ve been eating too many apples? You’re scaring me…last thing I need is a young bride…hmmm, hey wait. Yeah, I really like the photo of my foot on the stones, too!
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Just… beware of apples, like every Snow White. One other thing: I had a good intention of friending you on FB but it’s not so easy to find the right Badfish. I learned that there is a Sublime song by that title though. Maybe I need to know you better…
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Got it…Snow White, good. Apples, bad.
FB–ha! This is my weakness…I just can’t do things on the physical level. My FB page is under my actual name. And I have been meaning to open a FB account for the blog (since last year sometime). But you have to open an email account. And I haven’t done that. Now I just realized that if I open an email for my blog, I’ll have to change everything on my blog, or start a new blog…or find out if it’s possible to change email addresses on the blog…see, just can’t do the physical stuff
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All right, let’s just be our astral selves then.*projects*
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right…astral What?
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Mhhhh, I thought I was meeting you half way! :p
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ah…so that’s how it is
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My God! What an incredible post…..eye candy and informative as always. Pix are brilliant!
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A….so glad you liked it, it was fun walking and fun writing. And fun photographing. All fun!!
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Loving the magical fairy tale theme – complete with princesses and their knights in shiny suits! Hear, hear – good post – and the syncronicity thing wouldn’t have worked so well if I hadn’t read part I first.
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Safar, well it is a fairy tale city, eh?
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That it is.
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Oh, I get it! Fairytale city = Cinderella Brides and Prince Charming Grooms on parade! And it’s only 6:15am BEFORE coffee. Damn. I’m good!
Lovely descriptions and photos. Always a treat to read your stuff.
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HA!!! Yah…glass stilettos, fairy dust, and all! But you are good if it’s actually BEFORE coffee!!
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You should see what I can pull off after a glass of wine 😉
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ha! can only imagine!
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Brilliant post BF. If anything, and who really wants to compare but I’m doing it anyway, Part II is even better than Part I, but both are great. I’m saving them to use as guides when I go to Prague. BTW Happy Birthday young man.
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Its your Birthday Mr Badfish??
Many Happy Returns! 🙂
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Yeah…nobody here to sing me happy birthday, but oodles on FB…well, all four of my friends on FB anyway.
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Hey Don, well, if we believe what some say, “comparing” is what humans do best. And it’s interesting that you liked II better than I, as I didn’t think I’d done a better job at that one. Goes to show…don’t compare your own self. I should have included a map for you for your trip…but it’s an intuitive journey up those hills. And thanks for the bd wishes.
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Beautiful photography as usual. Love the colors. What an adventure! I would’ve loved to have been there. You were right about the wedding gowns. That’s probably more than I’ve ever seen.
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Seems like many folks like the photography in this post, and I’m not sure why. I guess the light was right in Prague, or I was just lucky, or something. And right…wedding gowns. And there were actually more, just no place to put them in the post, overkill being what it is and all.
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wow, that’s a lot of brides and grooms!
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Mani, I know, and there were more of those guys!!
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I am exhausted from the excursion! Wow you should definitely get a free brew or massage or something. Loved the video inclusion especially with the worker moving through. I laughed out loud. Also very much enjoyed the translated conversation going on up the stairs. Yes I imagine that is exactly what they were saying. 🙂
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A free brew…that’s all I’m saying! I’m not too proud to get a brew for this stuff. And I have to tell you, I’ve played that video of the worker walking through a dozen times. I laugh each time, so funny!
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Phew, I was pleased to see that funicular because I was worn out with the uphill walk. In fact, I would be very tempted to take the limo up the hill and walk back down. We find when we travel in Europe we see many more wedding parties than at home. We decided that, while Saturday is the traditional wedding day in Australia, you can get married any day of the week in Europe. That’s our theory anyway!
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The funicular was actually very cool, and a highlight of the trip! And by then, I needed a ride. I think in Prague, at least, any day is a good day to get married, or take wedding photos! I think your theory stands the test.
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Brides, bridges, brilliant pictures, I am loving Prague more and more. All these shots are beautiful. I am trying to remember what you said about your camera? Now, don’t tell me these were taken with a cell phone. I don’t think so. How you manage to process them so skillfully, when this is not your profession, is beyond me.
I tend to be the everything is a miracle person. Like Gurdjieff, I don’t expect anyone to be awake or smart, so when they are, I am thrilled. I am just gratified to see that there is a magical, beautiful European city left, full of color and life and seemingly not miserable about change.
It might be a challenge for me to eat in Prague, being a vegan — not sure. I cannot eat anything except bread in Germany for example. Everything else is laced with animal matter. I hope the Czech Republic is not like that. Not much of a beer drinker, but maybe I should be. I might be more relaxed and lord knows I need that!
This is delightful, as have been all in this series.
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Beth…funny thing is, more and more I depend on my phone. But I think most of these were taken with my camera, Sony RX10, a pretty good camera but not pro standard, 20mp and not a full-frame sensor.
I am also an everything is a miracle person, because I couldn’t get through a day without a miracle, small miracle, but still…I need help, and I get it.
Being a vegan in Prague is not difficult. Actually, in the one roof-top photo, if you enlarge it, you can see that there are people dining in the roof tops and it’s a vegan restaurant. Try the absinthe!!
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Absinthe, the drink? I have always been fascinated by that! How chic. Well, a vegan restaurant on a roof. Who wouldn’t love that! More reasons to go. You do an amazing job with that camera. Frankly, I cannot tell the different between my full frame and other cameras. It’s the photographer and the processing that makes the pictures. You can do everything in PhotoShopp CC now. You don’t need any other software.
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Absinthe, the drink, right. Me too…always wondered what the hype was about, or if it wasn’t hype and then, a really cool thing to stick in your system. It’s like 70%! I’m actually writing a post on it now.
I see what you and others do with good editing tools, and it makes me want to learn how, but I never follow through!!
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I would sip it once, but I am a huge protector of my brain. It is my best feature, so, I think I might keep a tiny bottle of Absinthe as a fragrance to put behind the ears, hee hee.
Honestly, BF, I take terrible shots from years ago on a crummy little camera and make them into artwork in PS and Topaz. Truly, new software is miraculous.
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I’m hearing this–the cologne and the photo advice! Both work for me!
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You have truly outdone yourself, BadFish. Oh my gosh–walking with Sister Mary Olga was so tiring, and then the baby blue being guarded by camo-man. All the brides and those penguins….but I felt the fairy dust sprinkle on my shoulders. Gosh, but Prague is one beautiful city! Totally lost it with Starbucks, though! HAHA!
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Lois…I know, so many oddities here. And just what is up with those penguins anyway? Who thought that was a good idea, I wonder?
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Probably that guy with the kilt…….?
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HA! Right, or someone like that!
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Despite the novelty of riding in a “stretch, convertible, authentic-reproduction-antique limo”, I’d prefer to walk.
The photo immediately below “statue of Kafka sitting on its mantle” is exquisite – light, clarity, composition all beautiful. And the next one below it, and the first one of the red roofs and also the Matthias Gate one – same. I love photos like this – not over exposed, and enough contrast but still with a lovely softness. The two nuns and the second red roofs need a little more contrast, but the one immediately below the nuns is gorgeous. There are others but I got sick of scrolling back and forth to make notes here as I’m reading.
Loved the buskers video – we both chuckled.
The photo of the canal is exquisite.
I think by now even I, who loves hiking up hill, would be riding that funicular!
“what we choose to believe…is what is real for us.” THIS! It’s what I believe anyway 🙂
A wonderful whimsical walk through Prague. I love your imagination and the little random snippets of information. I had no idea Czechs were such huge beer drinkers. I can’t wait to explore Prague IRL, but this virtual stroll was a very good start.
Alison
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Yeah, I loved looking at the fake cars for a moment or two, then they just looked…fake. Thanks for the photo stuff. And that video…I’ve looked at it many times in the last few days…I laugh each time!
Walking up Petrin Hill would be cool, if you hadn’t just climbed Castle Hill as I did. I rode mostly because it was getting late, and I wanted a sunset shot. Didn’t get one, though.
Who would have thought the Czechs drank so much beer…or anyone, that much?
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Oh wow – these photos are amazing! You swear you are not a LR master? Whatever you are doing or using is working! I did not zoom in on the tower babies, but did go back and check on the hidden bride. I read Kundera 20-30 years ago and loved all his angsty novels with all the worrying over whether things were kitsch-y or not. But back to the photos – you seem to have captured every angle of sun that day and as it wound down with your post, I felt myself getting drowsy and tired from the walk. A delightful read!
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I don’t even know how to load a photo into LR. I just learned to use the photo thingy on my Mac. You have to be careful, though, because it ruins clarity and sticks in noise if you mess with it too much. It’s mostly luck here I think. And the fine light quality of Prague!!
I started walking that day early, and didn’t get back home till 12:30 at night. My feet ached for days after, but I kept walking. cobblestones suck
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Badfish, this is one heck of a walk, and it sounded like for most of the you went uphill and still had the energy to wander around town when it turned dark. You know, maybe that girl must be happy she is posing for a photo to say she’s been there…not so much going down. You know young people these days… 😉
Hope you didn’t wear our your shoes and you went slow.
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Mabel…yup, mostly uphill. It seemed like coming down took no time at all! And you may be right about the happy girl…maybe she’s just a happy person…and young…she could be happy about almost anything! I did go slow because I was looking at everything and taking photos, but it took literally all day! I slept well that night.
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Going slow is good. Look at all those things and people you saw! I tend to go slow too wherever I go, and taking photos is a must for me. On a good day I’ll take at least 200 photos…I generally count 50 photos as trying and I’d think I was moving too fast that day 😀
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Mabel, you’re right, going slow, good. Going fast, bad. And I’m with you on the photos–if it was only 50, something’s wrong with the place, or I’ve been there too long. I didn’t take so many when I carried film!
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If it was only 50 photos I took at a particular place, I probably did not have a good time. Or perhaps I was running for my life or something. Or simply going too fast 😀
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Right! My problem is that I don’t like to transfer photos to computer and then delete them from memory sticks…so, I spend a lot of money on memory sticks!! That is dumb.
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I can’t add much to the comments on your photography…I’m in awe of most everything you capture. I must admit, you are turning me into a person who LUSTS…after international travel, something I have never been interested in before!
And I swear, YOU could find a Starbucks ANYWHERE!!
All those brides, hmm, Manja may have a point.
But before you succumb to the pressure to be IN one of those wedding shots, you must let your travels take you on a quest for a Northwest USA Starbucks. I think I need to meet you for a latte as my fantasy version of you has me wondering about a modern day version of my religious ancestry…
just one of your fans here…(smiley face here…still no emoticons)
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I think my shots in Prague were mostly luck and the nice light in the city that day. And if I’m at fault for making you lust to travel to foreign lands, then my job is done, I can go home now.
And right…seems like I can find a Starbucks anywhere. But that may have more to do with Starbucks marketing than me, eh.
If Manja has a point, I’m in trouble. Or some woman is!
OK…latte it is. Meet me in Prague, or China, or Bali…we’ll find a Starbucks.
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Hmmm, I’d have to pick Bali…unless Fiji or Tonga have Starbucks now. But the Starbucks Mothership is only a few miles from my house…and I know where all the good Chinese restaurants are…and Thai and Mexican and, and, and Oh, we have an extra Harley you could ride for the quick trip to the closest Starbucks. It’s less than a mile away.
And there is even a slough you could ride the Bike into! It’s right on the way! (Wink)
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Yeah, Bali is high on the list, always, of places to go. Your place sounds great. But wait…you have an EXTRA Harley lying about? What’s up with that? Can I ride it in thongs!
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Now there’s a selfie I’d like to see…oh wait, you said “things” plural, right?
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Spewing coffee on my screen here!! I think you’ve been alone too long, girl.
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Ya but is it Starbucks coffee? And I’m not alone. Just able to appreciate a good and talented man!
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of course, it’s SB!! brewed it myself, though
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I meant thongs, plural. Damn auto correct!!!
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oops!
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Amazing city, had tons of fun there!
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I hear that! Tons of fun floating everywhere
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A small introduction: http://www.victorbezrukov.com/longography-prague-horizon202-ilford-fp4-part-ii/
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found it, very cool B&W, and thanks for the shout out there!
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i easily can recognize a few places 🙂
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Oh what a grand tour of Prague this was, badfish. Your photos and narrative were entertaining and informative, loved all the history, castles, architecture. And the numerous bride poses interspersed drove home your point well, great emphasis on the hill climbing, too. I laughed at the video with the quartet and the worker busting right through. Really lovely tour of this elegant and ancient city.
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Jet, glad you enjoyed. Prague was definitely fun (now elephants, though), and what is up with all those brides anyway? When the worker walked through while filming, I was upset. But then, it was just so funny, I laugh every time I watch it.
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Awesome, that’s impressive you did the whole thing just in one day! I feel like visiting Prague for my next European trip 😉
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One day, yeah, but it actually took the whole day, didn’t get home until after 12 midnight…as you can see in the photos, it was dark. But so lovely.
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Wow – there is so much in here, I don’t know where to start in commenting.
What stands out the most is the number of wedding photos you managed to capture! I didn’t see a single bride the entire time we were there. Everything is in the timing I guess 😉
Climbing up the hill to the castle should be an endurance sport of its own. I climbed it, I descended it, then did it again on a Segway. I liked the Segway best … although going down was rather frightening.
Love your photo of the castle from the Petrin Tower! I didn’t make it up there, and obviously I missed a magnificent view. Your photo really does highlight how massive the castle really is!!
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Joan, no brides when you were there? Well, you probably went in January right!! You rode a Segway? Dang…now I feel like I have to return to try that. I’m wondering what road you took up on the Segway, the long way, I guess, the road cars take, without steps?
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The Segway tour was the highlight of our time in Prague. We had an excellent guide and with just the 3 of us, we had a blast.
Yes, we did take the long way up which was so much easier than walking 😉
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Now I’m just disappointed. I got the info to rent a Segway, have the guy’s number still on my phone. I just never followed through with calling and doing the trip, and I really want to ride a Segway…I want one to ride to classrooms on campus where I work! They also rent them in Amsterdam, and I don’t rent them there either. I’m a putz.
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You have to do it!! I would totally have a Segway if it wasn’t virtual suicide here in Toronto!
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I want one to ride around campus
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bravo badfish
this post was – let’s see – delightful was the word that came to mind when I went back up to see the bride behind the girl on the stirs with her arms spread open. I did miss her the first time.
and the flow was perfect = needing a beer now – but I will be okay.
and who knew the Czech drank so much beer – would have thought Germany beat everyone.
but I am curious as yo what research you refer to – that beer “protects brain cells, aids digestion, and fights inflammation”
hmmm
maybe quality beer could – and definitely only in a person with a healthy bioterrain.
But sadly, so many folks have candidiasis – and so beer for them only fuels the fungal form of candida and adds to their maladies (which is usually malabsorption, brain fog, fatigue, and who knows what….) – but I digress –
oh….
and didn’t they take away the locks at Pont des Arts in Paris? too heavy….?
and LMAO with the nuns, but I think I overheard: “Jesus, Mary and hey, is that bad-fish walking over there? —the has had to many pints, Olga!”
well – I also laughed with this:
it takes a village to raise a child, it takes a pint to raise a smile
ah – and it takes a talented blogger to make a post so versatile!
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Y…HA! you’re a trip here. And yeah, probably most people have candidiasis and don’t even know it. And if beer really did all those things, we’d all be healthy.
It’s fun to discover which pieces of the post people lean toward, or smile at. I laugh every time I watch that video of the cleaner walk past the quartet.
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the cleaner walking past was such a surprise – and added that everyday feel to the city.
This really gave us a feel for the place and the brides – all so diverse and with the grooms and their unique tuxes and colors – well I am sure that you know it is probably hard to really comment about all the stuff we soak up from such travel posts….
xoxo
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As long as you’re soaking stuff up…then all is well!
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and glad you comfy shoes
🙂
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I enjoyed the post a lot. I’m afraid my thoughts are rather scattered, though, and jump about a bit. I love the look of the place. I really want to drink a coffee at one of those cafes on the way up to the castle.
Speaking of which, the castle is huge and it is great looking, but it doesn’t look all that castle-like to me (admittedly a complete non-expert). I always image castles having battlements and things. It fits my image of some kind of palace. (It still looks magnificent, though, so this is not a complaint!)
I enjoyed the little bit of video with the musicians. Great to see that the street cleaner was thrilled by the music too. The joy on her face was clear for all to see.
At first, I didn’t notice any bride coming down the hill in that photograph. When you mentioned it later, I went back and she’d magically appeared.
I’ve never put a random photograph in a post for no particular reason, but I would if I had anything as nice as the one you used.
You should definitely get free beer from somebody in Prague for your services on behalf of the Czech tourist industry. The place looks amazing and I hope to visit it one day.
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Bun K…maybe your thoughts are scattered because the post is scattered? And yeah, why doesn’t that castle look like a castle anyway? I guess castles have different shapes, I like the Bavarian ones that look like Disneyland.
Some just look like stone forts. I laugh every time I watch that street cleaner video! Didn’t realize it until I viewed it later.
And right…free beer is what blogging is all about isn’t it?
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The post covered a lot of ground, but it was ground worth covering! It’s ground I hope to cover myself sometime too–especially if there’s any chance of free beer!
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fingers crossed, eh!!
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What awesome photos and captions to go with them!
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Thanks…so glad you appreciate them!
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Ah such beauty…you are an impressiver photographer Bad Fish and your writing kept me captivated. I really like the photo of the bright yellow building and the light refkected at night, that is just a stunner!
The first part of this post made me think of Lisbon, it seemed so similar. The uphill climbs, the streets, ( sans the Portugese tiles)… have you been and if so, do you think these cities are similar? I have not been to Prague.
That’s a shit load of wedding pictures haha ~ cool!
Peta
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Peta…very interesting that you ask about Prague! I have never been there, but have always thought about it, and never quite ended up there…don’t know why…because I really want one of those heavy wool fishermen’s sweaters they make there!! Shitload of weddings is right…and I have more!!
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Haven’t made it to Prague yet. Need to get there some day. And remind me to bring a bride with me because that is clearly the hip thing to do. A compliment to the city for sure.
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you don’t need to take a bride, just pick one up off the street there!
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Everything is a miracle Badfish…especially beer. I’ll take it over Kopi Luwak any day. And while I’m loving my Bintangs, I think you’ve got me beat with Staropramen and Pilsner Urquell. Live the wedding dress images. Seems like everyone is sporting one in Prague. I’d prefer a skirt and sensible hiking shoes when walking those cobble stone streets (seemingly uphill both ways) or climbing the 299 stairs of that tower, but I wouldn’t look anywhere near as beautiful. Big hug from Beliting 😘
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Yes, in Bali I do Bintang, but I’m pretty sure Czech pilsner is some of the best stuff around. I swear, I never saw so many white dresses!! Day after day. Are you overstaying your stay in BAli, or was this the schedule??
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We left Bali long ago. We’ve since been to Kalimantan, Central Java, Kalimantan, and now, Belitung. Heading to Pulau Ketawai on Thursday with plans to leave Indonesia on the 27th.
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got it…I wondered…as I remembered your itinerary from before
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Awesome post.. I really enjoy it. Only one thing 🙂 about the weddings. Im Czech living in Albania. I never seen in my life ,that many weddings in one day, as here in Albania. Specially in summer. I must ensure you in Czech is nothing 🙂
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Ha! Thanks for hanging out here, and for the info. I guess I’ll have to visit Albania!!
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